So, after “regrouping” from my Iraq assignment, my Vertigo paragliding buddies sat me down and convinced me to stick around for few more weeks and participate in the annual PAMPUR yacht race in the Adriatic Sea in Croatia. A race organized sole from Macedonians. “We don’t even have a sea” my notion was. “- No worries, we did it last year and almost sunk the damn boat!” That was good enough for me!
Wonderful Tanja, our boat chef, thank you for all the snacks, food, and coctails!
sailing out from Sukosan marina.
After couple of meetings with my boat crew, named Vertigo Wave Team (think a bar and lotsa drinking,) where I didn’t understand absolutely anything, we filled the bus with ton of food, loads of booze, a guitar and after 18h of straight ride, we were in the Sukosan marina, near Zadar in Croatia. There was a huge storm approaching, the sky was dark and getting darker since it was 4.30 when we sailed out.
...and getting dark
It was a blast. Music was playing, drinks were flowing, jokes were told and sails were open! It was a deferent blast when we realized that the wind was picking up and our speed increasing. We had ‘Bavaria 44’ yacht, winds were 35 knots (some 60kmh, around 45mph) and we were sailing with 9 to 10 knots! For a 44ft boat with 9 people on board, 4 of us first timers - this was a pretty fast deal. I had no idea at the time! I had 9 layers of clothes on me, cigarette in one and a can in the other hand and having a blast! I thought this is the way it’s supposed to be! Since there was nothing for me to do except hold that beer for a dear life (there was no way I would go under the deck in a 45 degrees angle rocking boat for another can) it clicked to me that I should probably take some photos.
CD player died - abandon ship!!!
Only after reviewing my photos on the back display of my camera, I realized the seriousness of the faces of my mates. We were heading out on open seas, it was dark and getting darker and wind was picking up! Light was gone, there was no moon, my stomach was saying no to another beer and after 5 hours of rocking and bouncing on the slippery deck I resolved to paying attention to the GPS and helping the skipper Cigi to the little lagoon, where we could find shelter form rough seas and spend the night.
We are all experienced pilots and navigation was not an issue, so we squeezed between shallow banks of the lagoon, found a bowie between few other boats and resolved to heavy drinking. I slept like a baby that night!
checking out the island of 'Dugi Otok'
Calm sea, gentle breeze, bring the drinks out!
The next few days, the weather got better, sea got calmer, and the never ending party continued. We were 11 boats altogether, some time we would meet on a sea, some night we threw an anchor together and made our boats a huge swaying dancing floor, tripping of ropes, wires, and other yacht parts laying on deck that I have no idea what they are called. It was awesome!
boat party
three boats join together for a party
On the first race day, we had to stay behind in the marina and help a boat stuck in other boats ropes in the marina (apparently a great disgrace to the skipper of that boat.) A diver was called in for help. We had a late start and we got the 7th place that day. That was not a reason to despair, we partied hard that night and the next day we got serious! We pushed hard, tightened the sails, and payed attention to the charts, the GPS and what not. We got the 3rd place, right behind a boat with MUCH bigger sails and a crew with a professional Croatian skipper. The rest of the boats were 30 minutes and more behind! I’d say not bad at all for a bunch of rookies and first timers!
catching up with the other boats
getting down to business
my first sailing lesson (photo by Dima)
I was supposed to be back in the States, missed my Oct 15th tax deadline, probably late on a ton of bills, god knows how many missed assignments and jobs, but this my friends was an adventure worthy of my presence! Till the next one…
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